Dandan again - reflections

I get green with envy at these emails... but I have to share them too.

From Dandan :-

"Reflections! 17th December

Another hot day in Polynesia, 87 degrees and a cloudless sky today. Its lunch time and a fish barbecue is being served on deck in addition to all the normal options available, to much of a good thing for us.

Amazingly there are passengers on here who insist on silver service for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with each meal consisting of several courses. These are not youngsters, many of them are seventy plus it has to be seen to be believed.

Artemis is midway between New Caledonia and Brisbane, which marks the half way point in our journey. Hard to believe that it was almost eight weeks ago, that we, plus 17 suitcases and holdalls set out for Southampton.

Now as we travel towards Australia and New Zealand, looking forward to our antipodean experience, and Christmas down under, it is perhaps time to reflect further on the journey, so far.

The journey across the Atlantic was classed as rough, with stormy weather most of the way, in truth I was disappointed, Rough on this ship, does in no way compare with chomping down the Solent, in a mild force 3 blow, under sail in a thirty foot yacht, Stabilizers 8 metres long either side, coupled with front and rear trimming tanks, take most of the motion out of the ship. Although surprisingly some do succumb to sea sickness, But then one suspects they probably would on Hyde Park Lake (or maybe all that food gets its own back)

Good weather caught up with us as we passed St Vincent and Anne happily claimed her bed on deck, next to the pool and began to change colour. Good fun was had by one and all as we paid our respects to Neptune on the equator and proceeded to travel down and around South America.

South America is marred by the obvious inequality, with poverty, crowded in amongst ostentatious wealth; guarded apartments and communities in town, ranches and haciendas in the country side.

You are struck by the absence of older people in places like Rio, as the young have all the work, even the road sweepers are youthful. They don’t do growing old here. There elders are either rich and therefore not on the streets or abject poor and living god knows, how and where.

The townships built with the throwaway products of our modern consumer society, cardboard, plywood, polythene, etc. cling grotesquely to the hillsides, with no visible streets or means of access. I cannot guarantee the actual figures, but was told by our guide that well in excess of 70% of the population consist of young people under the age of 35.

There countryside’s however are a scenic and impressive mix, varying between the Andes Mountains, steaming rain forest, coffee and banana plantations and the pampas or grasslands. The latter support the vast herds of livestock that provide the meat that is the main revenue earner for Argentina and Uruguay. Cowboys called Gauchos, still work these herds, hard lonely men who live on horseback and carry huge knives in scabbards slung across there own backs, and there is as Mr Sinatra said an awful lot of coffee in Brazil.

On our South American journey we rounded the horn and I was astounded to find that the horn itself is an island, rather than the end of a peninsular joined to the mainland, that I had always imagined it to be. We were therefore, after picking up a Chilean pilot, able to circumnavigate it, for me undoubtedly the highlight so far as I stood for three hours on the bow of the boat, struggling to hold myself and my camera still, as the wind gusted across the open deck. This was a calm day and it was almost impossible to stand still.

Pity that Chile, with such a scenic coastline, absolutely ideal for the traveller who wants more than just sunshine and sundowners. Should be so badly let down by, politics and lack of organisation ashore, a country desperate for the revenue, cruise ships and tourist can bring, needs to get its act together in all ways, if its is going to attract more than the back packer ashore. The scenery and experience will live long in the memory. As for the shambles ashore, it’s probably more charitable to forget it.

The journey across the Pacific has been a delight, happy smiling faces, as sunny as the paradise islands they live on. Laid back people with flowers in there hair, likely to sing and dance at the slightest opportunity, none of the squalor and poverty on view as is the norm in most of the beautiful places we have visited, No doubt it exist, but is not apparent or visible, no beggars or individuals trying to sell to you at every turn. They do sell the things they produce, but in well laid out village markets

Fiji was our penultimate stop this leg, (there are 333 Fijian islands) the principle island is called Viti Levu, its second largest city is Lautoka and it was here we visited.

The run in to reach Lautoka, through numerous uninhabited Robinson Crusoe islands took a couple of hours and then there was the coral reef to clear, before we could come alongside and tie up..

Most of these islands were visited in the first instance by Captain Cook and one can only marvel at his skill as a sailor and navigator as he chartered these, then unknown waters.

Captain Bligh must also have been some sailor to have got his ships boat, full of starving and dieing men, through this huge ocean, with its sudden squalls, uncharted reefs and islands, not to mention in those days cannibals.

Fiji is another nation with large cheerful indigenous people, augmented by third and fourth generation Asian Indians. On the surface it seems a happy relationship. But signs were that this is not so and tensions exist. There was a coup a few years ago, the Indians all voted there people in; and took control, because the Fijians hadn’t bothered. This led to riots and the constitution being changed so that the Fijians will always have 51% of the members of parliament.

We hired a taxi to see the island its mountains and beaches, under our own steam, Anne spotted a traditional wedding and the bride happily allowed me to take a photo. We then went shopping in a typical village, stalls were set up for home produced goods and Anne had some retail therapy, buying a necklace and bits for the New Years Eve fancy dress masked party. This together with a traditional dress she has bought and her now black skin should make an interesting sight
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Our last visit was Noumea the capital of New Caledonia a French controlled island. Again politics crept in; the French customs came aboard and cleared the passports and documentation. Having done this they went on the public address, announcing that only Australian and not American dollars would be accepted ashore, (how they hate the Americans). Obviously Queues formed at the cashier’s desk as passengers going ashore tried to get Australian money. Later on going ashore we all found the locals dead keen to take American money, the announcement being French Policy, for which the locals had no time at all.

It was here I got well stitched up, having purchased two tickets for the little Champaign train at £24 pounds each. We found on going ashore it was a kids train that ran on the roads, not on rails and having dragged us a couple miles up the road , we pulled into a car park with some views to photograph, and were handed half a plastic cup of Champaign and some minute pastries. Before turning round and going back to the terminal. Here the normal non P and O price was displayed £7.50 each, Lol said I was stitched.

So that’s it Sunday in Brisbane and half way round, hope the second half is as good.

Thanks to all of you who have emailed me, re. These chats, you are very kind, I would however be pleased to know, if in fact anyone found the Artemis video on the Pitcairn site I gave you last time.

Wishing you all a peaceful Christmas, Wherever in the world you are spending it, may Santa be good to you and the New Year be a Happy and Prosperous one.

. We will be at sea on Christmas day but you can rest assured our thoughts will be with you and a glass or two will be raised

Regards Anne and Cliff."