Dandan on the other whales, mexico etc...

Another email from Dandan...
Do you think this guy ever gets homesick? Also, I am wondering how the diet is going. Oh well, another brilliant email, thnx Dandan!!!

"Los Angeles to the Caribbean

12 am, Friday 27th January, 31 degrees C, Wind force five, ship averaging 20 knots, directly into the breeze, So once again a very strong, wind across the deck, but at least its a warm one, effectively disguising just how hot that sun is. There will be some sore bodies tonight, among the passengers who embarked at LA, for the three week run home. Their whiteness contrasting starkly, as they fill the sun beds, with the seasoned campaigners who have grabbed every opportunity to worship the rays over the past three months. Making up for lost time, could be a painful experience, there is not a cloud in the sky, Lets hope it holds for the thousand mile run to Panama..

Los Angeles was its normal dreary self, not a town I like, have been here before, so went shopping, still no lens ( the good news is it has gone down £150. back home in the UK. Loll) Had a Korean lunch in the food hall, orange chicken with noodles, new to us and very tasty. Returned to the ship early, allowing Anne to join the ray seekers on the deck

We are moored in yet another container port; there have been so many of these around the world, not great for photography. Two American Cruise Liners were here, there home port and they took precedence as always. One was moored alongside the front part of the pier allocated to us, so our skipper had to back in and park (skipper and park, are words guaranteed to make a British captain very mad, you use them on board at your peril,). This also positioned Artemis neatly across the cut that ran at right angles to us and contained the other American ship.

Now as we were sailing last, this made for some fun later on, Artemis weighs in at some 45,000 tons, whilst the other two are over 100,000 tons each; we are not talking little ships here. The ship in front of us departed first, allowing us to untie and pull forward some 100 metres, just clearing the cut. The other American beast had to then pull out across our stern with a clearance of 3 metres and turn alongside us in the width of the dock, a further constraint being container ships moored on the opposite bank. He did it, no paintwork scratched and off he went with an exchange of blasts on the ships whistles. Give these fellows there due the certainly can drive these things. But what would they do without side thrusters

We sailed out into some more bad weather en-route to Mexico. Next morning though still cool, dawned bright and calm with practically no swell, just the constant wind. The water was like a mill pond, some luck at last, as this stretch of water is the marine equivalent of M4, a sort of motorway for whales, the main drag down to the breeding grounds in the shallow lagoons off Baja California. The captain announced we would divert from our course and enter a couple of these bays looking for the mainly grey whales. Great.

Then of course it happened, one of our four engines developed a fault, our speed dropped and although the diversion was still on, entry and exploration were precluded, by the need to be in Acapulco at the correct time, to meet the pilot and berth (is Jonah on this bloody ship? I know it’s probably me.) Never mind, moving through these mirror like waters at reduced speed, we were privileged to watch, grey whale, killer whale, manta rays and turtles all going in the opposite direction to us, near enough to see there spouts and antics. But not close enough for the camera (that lens is back again) and shoals of porpoises and dolphins speeding towards the ship leaping and diving as they came, only to disappear, whilst still moving at great speed, under and around the ship.

Artemis has a long raked bow. Long enough to enable tugs to disappear under it, when manoeuvring in harbour, it was not therefore possible to see where the hull enters the water, and whether these delightful, intelligent, fun loving creature were riding our bow wave as they love to do,

The grey whale is back, from almost the brink of extinction, and because they travel close to shore and can be observed from coastal cliffs and headlands, they have become very popular with whale watchers, along this coast, some have become friendly whales, approaching boats and allowing themselves to be touched. How sad therefore, that as they are no longer on the endangered list, some people feel the need to take them for scientific purposes.

One last interesting thought, from a scientist and fellow traveller, it is said that if intelligence was judged by the complexity of a species language, then the whale would outscore mankind because they have the most complex of all languages,

After a wonderful day, unique in my experience, we passed Cabo San Lucas, turned left and at a stroke, exchanged the cold for warm weather and headed on into Acapulco.

Acapulco, Good Beaches, a sun worshipper’s paradise, nightlife and markets, great if you like that sort of thing. Personally the personal attention of constant touts, extolling the virtues of this or that shop, I find very wearing and is enough for me to say I wont be returning,

I enjoyed some of the historical sites, though classing John Wayne’s and Johnny Weissmuller’s (Tarzan to you who remember) houses as such, seemed sort of over the top, They also say that Weissmuller an Olympian in his own right was responsible for training the first cliff divers, whether he was or not, I found the divers brave and impressive. Maybe the fact that we didn’t go on an organised tour and went at a quieter time, minus the coaches enabled us to see more in comfort. Unlike many we met.

We were ashore early and enjoyed a very good Mexican breakfast in an up market restaurant, found an English speaking taxi driver and had a reasonable tour.

Hautulco
Next day found us in Hautulco. Lovely, made up of nine bays and 36 picturesque beaches, a recharge your batteries sort of place, British airways are about to start direct flights to here. Now is the time to see it, because the Mexican government plan a resort, based on the success of Acapulco.

Only four bays have been built up, the rest being nature reserves, which they say, will never be touched. It is also the only resort in Mexico that does not dump waste black water (sewage) into the sea, as it has three water treatment plants already working.

The roads the government have constructed thus far, are beautifully landscaped and these along with the picturesque new golf course, which will delight many, are automatically watered by the recycled water. Temperatures were in the nineties and it’s warm all year round.

The Canadians have discovered the area and are loving it, and the fact that one Englishman having a bar there, was reason for comment by the locals, gives some idea, just how unspoilt it is at present. We will be checking out those flights later as Anne vows a return,

We were driven round by a young taxi driver who studied languages and spoke four fluently, he amused me greatly by calling president Bush a crocodile, when I asked why, he said, big mouth, small brain and attacks anyone he fancies without reason. Nice LOl

So we head for Panama, due there Sunday, for another day in my adopted spot at the front of the top deck, as the ship transits the canal. With just three Caribbean islands to visit, then off, Via the Azores to an early morning docking in Southampton on Sunday the twelfth Feb.

More on that and a few thoughts on the whole experience, if you want them, as we cross the Atlantic.

Right! off to a barbecue on deck, any one for soup, steak, chicken, burghers, sausages, fish, chops, cold meat, it goes on, Baked Potato,salad, potato salad’ coleslaw and on gateaux, cheesecake, apple pie, and on Mississippi mud pie, fruit salad, and on jelly, trifle, and on Brie, stilton cheddar, Danish blue, Rolls Biscuits and on and on and on, Lol It makes you sick, Think I will just have a beer , see you all soon

Byeeee Anne and Cliff"

S'mae?

I began my Welsh lessons today, from 9:15am to 3pm. I have a very strong feeling that I am the dunce of the group and will be the one asking all the obvious questions and hopefully providing the gentle relief for the others. You know the sort of person? The one who won't that says "what does this mean?" about 10 seconds after she has been told exactly what it means.
Anyway, I am trying..
I expect I won't be online much on Thursdays as the classes are then and I need to find a local doctor who will prescribe a few dodgey tablets to help me through this day, on a weekly basis.

But, I had a prime example of Welsh time (Amser Cymraeg) today. The class was on time, lunch and coffee breaks were punctual, in spite of the lack of milk for coffee. No one was late...
It took me a few seconds to notice the clock above the door, it said about 7:30am when we started, at 9:15 ish.. I finally took the photo during lunchtime at about 1pm..

Spring is here?

But its only January...



I have already been asked if that is a used condom in the hedge in that first picture. I am sorry, I never noticed it. Maybe I should return to that field...

Maybe I should never return...

More Tales from Dandan in the Pacific

I awoke to another email from Dandan this morning, so here goes...

"Hi. Here we go again. Its 10am on Tuesday 17th January. Artemis is cruising east north east, across the North Pacific Ocean, heading for Los Angeles about 1500 miles away. There is still three and a half miles of water beneath her keel and overhead an uncertain sky, with 50% cloud cover. A force four breeze, plus the wind created by our own 18 Nott’s momentum, makes for a windblown deck, but hey, we have sunshine at last and a 24 Degree temperature. So have settled Anne as comfortably as I can, sun bed, towels, cushion, book, and fruit and returned to the cabin, the computer and you lot.

One of the Major surprises of this trip has been the weather, probably only two weeks of clear blue sky in the 12 weeks we have been away. In fact the problems of white and grey skies have preoccupied my thoughts, as I have struggled to create some sort of photographic record of our journey. One is constantly shown pictures and films of these lovely places, with bright blue skies and sunshine, we have had some of this, but more, much more of the rain and grey variety. Also the constant wind, those friendly trades, that made the discovery, colonisation and exploitation of, and return from, the southern hemisphere possible for our forebears are still there, highly active and show their teeth constantly.

Holding a camera still in these conditions when you cant even keep the strap round your neck( its constantly blowing up and over your head and out in front of you like a flag,) is challenging and has caused me to utter the odd bother or two.
Standing on deck for the 3 or 4 hours required at these times, necessitates wearing, a fleece, a windproof coat and often, gloves (a much appreciated gift from my daughter, well done Claire)

So where have we got to. You may remember at Dunedin. I had taken a photo of some white dots on the headland and blown them up to find they were birds, large birds. Our resident expert was quite excited to confirm they were Royal Albatrosses and asked me for a copy of the photo, good for the old ego.

So on out from Auckland, four days of heavy sailing, windblown and wet with a large 13ft swell; I loved it, many didn’t, and the tables were much emptier at dinner for a while.

Then disaster struck. Anne, my wife, had been complaining (as wives do LOL) she was fed up with the weather and her hair needed a perm, ok, go and get it done. Up in the posh spa all smart uniforms and fancy prices. She is quickly relieved of £55 quid and comes down happy. We dress and off to dinner great.

Next morning, Anne is complaining her hair feels strange, she washes it, it hangs straight and lifeless, she returns to the manager of the spa, he says, we have used to strong a perm solution nothing we can do, will have to have it cut. Panic phone calls to Anne’s daughter a hairdresser. Don’t let them cut it. So every three days a wash, set and deep conditioner, trying at £20 a time to keep it in some semblance of order until we get home and have it sorted.

Bloody hell Anne has just walked in, its raining again, just another day in paradise.


Tongatupa.

More commonly know as Tonga. This is one of the friendly islands of which there are about 170 off; it was another of Captain Cooke’s successes, there is even a memorial stone in place under the tree, where he first landed
We toured Tonga on a Sunday, its a pretty island with some super beaches, on which the locals didn’t bother with special swimwear, but as a family went in dressed as they were, and then, let themselves dry around a family cook out and picnic, in Tonga it is mandatory to invite anyone who visits your house or party to eat and consequently they spend a lot of time doing just this and are big people.

Some great coral reefs, blow holes, large breakers, surfers and plantations complete your tropical island image, about 100,000 people live on these islands and they are 99.9% pure blooded Tongan.

There is also an 800 year old gateway with mortised stones of a size and weight comparable with Stonehenge back in the UK.

Each inhabitant is entitled to eight acres of bush, and are expected to produce there own food from it. Growing Yams, Bananas, Coconuts and Tapioca etc.

They also have a royal family and some of the older UK readers, may well remember the former Queen Salote riding in an open carriage in the rain at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953.

Coconut trees it seems all have just one trunk with a crown, no branches and all the nuts grow facing the same way. An oddity here is a coconut tree that has been struck by lightning at a crucial time,(or so the locals tell us), and has at the top of the trunk, grown three branches with three separate crowns all full of nuts, supposedly unknown anywhere else.

There are many pigs here, both wild and domestic, standing in the road, sporting there horns and giving contemptuous glances at the traffic, daring you to interfere, I think not Lol.

We followed a pick up truck with three kids and two adults in the open back, down the road, the kids grinning and making thumbs up signs at us. They had with them, laid out on banana leaves a whole stuffed pig. Evidently they were going to a funeral. It is the tradition for the aunts to supply stuff pigs for the mourners to eat. Actually they don’t mourn just have a celebration and a feast. Have the Irish been here I wonder?

A friendly island but, unfortunately, not a very clean one, with rubbish much in evidence everywhere.

Apia, Western Samoa.

Now this is the island, where time stands still, lush, fertile, pristine white beaches, Coral reefs, a chain of mountains down the centre, with cascading waterfalls and countless flowers and bushes a dream of a place.

No wonder Robert Louis Stevenson, The explorer and author, retired to, died and is buried here. His home high in the mountains, is the most gorgeous, riot of colour, tones and textures, a luxurious mix of flowers, plants and fauna, the house itself a long cool building with a veranda along its full frontage, looks out, across pristine lawns to the gardens, and beyond them the natural bush, trees and foliage, lead the eye finally to the ocean. I want it.

Stevenson was no ordinary expatriate sitting on his veranda, sipping sundowners and watching the world go by, but rather he joined the community, became a friend, benefactor and advisor. So much so that on his death the Samoan chiefs, themselves very important people in this society, hacked a path through the pristine jungle behind the house and up the mountain, dug a grave, then interred him with chiefly honours and ceremony the following day, a rare honour for an outsider. His headstone carries the famous words of his own epitaph; “Home is the sailor, home from the sea and the hunter, home from the hill” Says it all really.

We said time stands still here, on leaving the ship we made an agreement for a four hour island tour with a taxi driver, who then so enjoyed our obvious enjoyment of his home, that he took seven hours over it, a quiet shy man, he was amazed, when we insisted on a substantial, increase in the fare for his dedication..

Apart from all the natural beauty here, the cleanliness of this ultra religious country also hits you. Not for them the plastic bags and garbage of a modern throwaway society, cluttering the roadsides and beaches, here each village has its own women’s committee, who visit every house and inspect it for cleanliness, if it fails then that women is helped and trained in the ways of keeping an up to standard house. This attitude spills out across the countryside and each dwelling has a raised platform outside, on which rubbish sacks are stored, prior to collection, out of the reach of animals, both domestic and wild

Whilst here we visited a hotel called the Sinalei Reef Resort. www.sinalei.com. Anne says we are coming back, a wander round, a drink and then reluctantly, oh so reluctantly, on our way. Back to the ship No wonder it was here that Michener of South Pacific fame, found his Bali Ha’i. In the tiny next door island of Manona.

Samoa, Western Samoa as opposed to the comparatively, material world of American Samoa, visited in my last email, is a dream and a must come place for real travellers. Who long for a return to a world that was!

Three more days of indifferent weather and we arrived of the coast of Kiribati or Christmas Island,

Again going back to my youth I remember, a Sunday morning radio request programme, called Family Favourites, which played record request for and from British troops, stationed all over the world, we still had the commonwealth then. Each Christmas programme would include a request from some of the 3000 troops stationed here, for a delightful ditty called (wait for it)
How’d you like to spend Christmas on Christmas island. Little did I dream then, that I would one day, stand looking at it, from the deck of what in those days was called an ocean liner.

The reason all those troops, many of them conscripts doing national service, were here, was that just forty miles off this coast the nuclear bomb test were held.

Discovered by Captain James Cooke on Christmas Eve, hence the name, It now survives on the export of tropical fish, seaweed and coconut. 5000 people live here as do many tropical birds often as many as 6 million in the breeding season, the lagoon is a haven for fish and birds and a wildlife sanctuary. Big game fishermen also come here.

From the deck it is the most tropical looking of all the islands we have seen, flat, you can see right over it. White beaches all around, protected by a coral reef over which a multi hued blue, green sea breaks sending ripples into and across the lagoons and onto the shore. Beyond the few dwellings lining the shore can be seen another large turquoise lagoon surrounded by coconut trees all in all idyllic, Robinson Crusoe eat your heart out.

The shallow approach meant our staff captain (second in command) had to go out in the first of the ships tenders (boat) and mark a channel with buoys, for the other to follow as the only way ashore was by tender.

On getting ashore Rubbish, illusions shattered, derelict buildings, cars, scrap iron, hundreds of beer cans flattened just lying around, along the shore, girders and steel littering the beaches.

Amongst this locals had set up stalls, trying to sell some forms of local handicrafts, choirs sang, gorgeous looking kids posed for photo’s, among the sparse stubby scrub that invades the margins of the beach. A disaster completely and utterly if ever there was a case for just sailing bye, this was it, I took a few snaps to show how bad it was, and returned to the ship and those lovely views

Honolulu. Hawaii.

Three days sailing and we arrived at Honolulu, Very much the American dream, Shopping Malls, wide roads, cars, We had a mixed day, tried for the illusive lens, no luck, got some souvenirs and bits, ate Korean food for lunch, in the biggest food hall I think I have ever seen.

We then took a smart Lincoln taxi to pearl harbour, fare thirty eight dollars, we later returned on a shuttle bus for ten dollars and could have, we learned have gone on the tram for two dollars, who said fools and their money lol. My eldest would be ashamed of me. Sorry Alan.

Pearl harbour every bit as moving as you would expect, spoilt for me by the inexplicably annoying habit of the Japanese, to have to be seen in the photograph, rather than photographing the event or place itself, still having worked with them for twenty years I shouldn’t expect any better. Although this place, above all other perhaps deserved more respect.

Returned to the ship, dumped our bags and back out to a German restaurant for home made beers and some super food before an 11pm sailing. .

Maui, Hawaii

Next morning we were moored off the coast of Maui in a port called Kalahui, as the ship moved into anchor we could see perhaps 500yds away, whales blowing and leaping from the water, the locals, crafty fellows moved in on them in boats and shepherded them further away. They then sold us on reaching the shore whale watching trips.

Anne and I caught the first tender ashore, grabbed a couple of pancakes and were on the first whale watching trip of the day. Today I would have sold my soul for that new lens, such is life.
Two hours later and we were back on shore, tired from bracing against the constant movement of a small ship, but happy that I had the picture I wanted in the can as they say.

Having had a beer under the biggest banyan tree I have ever seen, we did a little shopping, fridge magnets have to be purchased and returned to the ship for Anne to soak up a couple of hours of rays. Before weighing anchor and setting a course for the city of angels.

That’s it; we approach the last legs of our journey, Mexico, Panama Canal, Caribbean and home. Hope all is well with you my friends. See you soon. Regards Anne and Cliff.

My Mum in school

The picture above was taken about 78yrs ago, so please excuse all the scratches on it and dirt. I wanted to keep it sort of natural.
The girl sitting in the front row, closest to the camera is my mother. The school is in Liverpool. My mum was able to name nearly all the girls in that photo, a few she was unsure of, but most she thought she knew still. Mum is now 84.
I was fascinated by the classroom furniture, the walls, the lack of smiles of the kids, so different from today.

Thanks 4 the comments

I would like to thank everyone for their messages of condolences and it has helped me considerably in my time of need. I feel quite humbled that I have been the proud keeper of such a well-known snail that has been seen across the world. The snail will be greatly missed, but not its smell as it gently decayed in its tank... ;)
I would like to give you a little taster of one of the superb emails I received from a global friend. I have had emails... messages in yahoo chatrooms... Instant messages too. So many that it has been staggering. But why the fuck can't you put the comments on my piggin blog????

I love getting comments...

oh well...
Here is just one gem from an anonymous snail fan.
(clears throat to read this)....

"My sincere condolences on the loss of your companion. To me it's like the passing of a beloved celebrity. You should know that this valiant snail likely held an image of greatness. Burdened so mercilessly with the added tonnage of snailhood, yet strong in heart and caring for it's fellow mollusks.

"I'll never forget that day it so delightfully entertained me on "Snail Cam" live, moving so carefree and blowing wind. Gosh those were the days. The others will have to be strong in their hour of sorrow and i have this for you.
{{{{Sheila}}}} "

I thought that was wonderful...
(sighs)

But, I am also able to move forward now. I thought maybe a picture that I took this morning of the remaining 6 snails might help. They are happily chomping their way through some rather small bits of cucumber and lettuce.
So.. the snails still have a future...

(they look better if you open the pic, just click on it!!)

I also have a slightly smaller one, which is kept in a small box for his own protection. Here he is... his first time online.


And thank you all for your kind words.
May the slime be with you!
xx

RIP Giant African Land Snail

I am sorry to announce that my largest and oldest Giant African Land snail has died. It is never easy to tell during the winter months as they hibernate a lot, but this one was definitely dead.
(re-runs dead parrot sketch, but puts in "snail" for "parrot")

Anyway, it had a good innings, must have been 5yrs old? Trina, if you read this, its the last of the originals that you got for me.
Thanks, I hope I gave it a good life... RIP

This picture was taken a long time ago, before I sold a lot of them, and before I moved to Wales...


Info on G.A.L.S this is not my site.

Dandan on NZ

I have received another one of Dandan's emails, he has 'done' New Zealand now.... over to Dandan...

"Hi. Happy New Year or Hogmanay, to you all, whatever you may call it and wherever you may be. We hope that yours was a truly good one, and that your plans and resolutions have survived the celebrations, alcoholic or otherwise and live on to flourish in 2006.

Anne and I had a great time with new friends as we saw the in New Year. The people on this ship are predominantly aged 55.plus. Consequently the music consisted mainly of the sixties and seventies variety. The Piano man and Hi Ho Silver Lining mixed with a lot of Abba, Tina turner the Beatles etc, was the order of the day. Anne’s legs unfortunately preclude her from dancing, but she sang with the best of them, and as a bonus woke up horse and virtually voiceless, O joy LOL

Today is Friday the 6th of Jan. Artemis is two days out from Auckland, steaming at 19 knots, heading for Tonga, backtracking in the south east pacific,. It is 8 AM and 28 degrees, partly cloudy, with a force three breeze, there is sun on the deck and Anne is up there making up for lost time.

Was it really only five years ago, I was, at this time of the year, working 14 hr days, desperately driving the year end figures, finalising last minute deals, anything to meet those targets. Whilst at the same time revising budgets, writing new pay plans and agreeing them with Japan, all for the for the launch of the new year on February the First, To start the same process again. Madness

I thought of this fleetingly, at about 6 A, M. this Jan 1st as I stood, at the bow of the ship, watching and recording, a sunrise of breathtaking intensity. Myriad shades of fiery Gold and red and everything in between were playing on the hills, sea and sky, as we approached the cliffs that guard the entrance to New Zealand’s, Marlborough sound.

It also caused me to stop and consider how I would find the words describe this New Zealand to you. After all I have already classed places and experiences as awesome etcetera, in my previous emails and with my limited vocabulary I am running out of the adjectives to do it justice.

The land of the Long White Cloud as the Maori call it, has so much going for it, with a climate ranging from that of the UK. At one end, to semi tropical at the other. From the craggy sound’s (fiords) and mountains of the south island, to the geysers and mud pools of the north, the whole place is a tree lover’s paradise. A verdant land, with its native bush, growing side by side with trees from all over the world that thrive in this climate, growing bigger and stronger than ever they did in there native lands.

A new land, constantly being changed by its volcanic heart, it has only been inhabited for 1000 years. For much of that time the Maori lived in harmony with the land
Unsurprisingly it is the arrival of the Europeans and the introduction of our pests, Rabbit, Stoat, Deer and latterly the Australian possum all of whom thrived, far beyond expectation that has threatened New Zealand’s natural infrastructure. For instance the possum was brought here for fur breeding, but in the anti fur times of the nineteen sixties, the usual well meaning but brainless, animal activist, freed a number from cages on farms, there are now an estimated sixty million, roaming the wilds and doing immense damage to native fauna. Many land owners have been reduced to dropping poisoned carrots from helicopters to try and contain the beast.

The kiwi bird national emblem of New Zealand owes its perilous existence to the stoat, which was introduced to hunt and kill the burrow living rabbits on the hillsides, unfortunately the kiwi too lived in burrows was bigger, slower and unable to defend itself and so became the stoat’s favourite meal, the end product was predictable, extinction

To its credit the government is working hard with programs to restore the natural balance by exterminating these pests, whilst installing captive reared, endangered natural species, on some of the many uninhabited islands that exist in abundance just offshore. A clever, ambitious and laudable attempt to restore parts of there country to its native state

Milford Sound and the Fiordlands: Are as beautiful to see, as they are difficult to photograph. The dark hills, looming mountains, and plunging waterfalls, all framed by a sky and sea, whose colours vary continuously, under the constantly changing light, play havoc with camera settings. I will not attempt to describe this magic area in great detail, suffice to say Milford sound is quiet, secluded, pristine and a must place to visit when in New Zealand.

Symptomatic of this area, was the fact that after a splendid day, the captain had to suddenly abort the entry to another sound as the weather closed in completely, the wind and sea rose and within half an hour, we had a full storm on our hands, causing us to shear away and head for open water and safety

Marlborough sound at the other end of the island while not as rugged, is still picturesque and stunning. The second home of the wealthy and the holiday playground of the young or water addicted, with countless boats of all shapes, sizes and persuasions from kayak, to car ferries, loitering, meandering or zipping around, dependant on size and the nature of there propulsion unit.

We visited a number of other sounds in the course of two separate days sailing among them, and it was thought provoking and a reflection on the size and grandeur of the places themselves that our 45.000 ton, 230 metre long ship, appeared to shrink, reduced somehow by its surroundings.

Dunedin was, wet, wet, wet, so we contented ourselves with some shopping and a visit to a chocolate factory, samples were nice.

You may remember when I left you last time; I had just chased up the ship to get a photo of an albatross. Well, here in Dunedin, whilst rounding the headland that guards the harbour entrance. I took a picture of it, and some groups of white dots on the green grass. As we left it astern the staff captain said on the P A ,as he was giving details of our course that, the little headland, housed a rare breeding colony of albatrosses. Having blown up those white dots on the computer I find they are large white birds with black tops to there wing. So now have just got to get the ships bird expert to see the picture and who knows, maybe I got lucky

Christchurch next: A city of parks, flowers, trees and rivers. We spent five hours exploring this super city by taxi and loved its diversity, its openness, and its cleanliness; many of the older buildings have not only been preserved, but taken into public ownership, restored and converted for public use and enjoyment. Alternatively the developer has been refused permission to knock down, but rather encouraged to reuse and modernise, much of this led by public outcry, that was actually listened too by those that represent them. Refreshing!!

One amusing anecdote was, that a well known London architectural practice, had been retained to use there considerable skills, to refashion an old building. Emphasising and capitalising on the fact that one of its aspects was south facing, they utilised as much as possible as window to catch the sun, unfortunately they had forgotten that this is the southern hemisphere and the world, including the sun, is the other way round.

Here an enlightened town council has put a law in place that says any developer seeking planning permission, has to gift the city 8% of the land, he is seeking to develop, which is then adopted by the parks dept and turned into a green space and looked after by them. Consequently not only is it impossible to infill on green places, but the percentage of green area remains the same, no matter how much the city grows in the future, unless of course that is, a Tony Blair or Gordon Brown Clone takes power

Wellington: A rough and windy day so bad that the ship had to employ tugs to pull her away and stop her or the quayside being damaged. We dropped any idea of sight seeing or touring, found a cyber café and chatted to our families and friends for a couple of hours. Weather had moderated so took the funicular to the top off the hill overlooking Wellington, shouldn’t have bothered, mostly the backs of buildings, oh well you can’t win them all. Down and back to the ship. Wellington unfortunately will have to be for another day.

Auckland: Didn’t get to view this city either, instead a three hour cross country ride took me to Rotorua, home of the thermal springs, boiling mud pools and geysers, fascinating, but vastly over commercialised and thus spoilt, but one shouldn’t be to critical as there are livings to earn, in a part of the country that does not have much industry,

Here we had a tremendous meal buried and cooked in an earth oven, over hot stones Maori style, with sweet potatoes, yams and salads, and the most delicious lamb, left pink and not overcooked as is the general way on the ship,

(Why do older people by and large like there meat well cooked. Is it, because they are the generation, who lived through the war and rationing years and therefore got used to cheaper cuts of meat being cooked longer? it is certainly much in demand on this ship)

This was followed by a Maori show, superb singing and dancing by a troupe, obviously enjoying themselves, especially, when as a finally the lady narrator told us we were going to join in one of the dances. Proceeded to teach us the Maori names for arms, legs, head, backside etc. and then launched into a Maori version of the hokey kokey, simple but hilarious.

Then on to a unique and interesting sheep show which defies my descriptive powers, suffice it to say it was clever, different, very funny and worth watching, however unlikely that may sound. But also served to remind me how much I miss our border collie that died last year.

Back in Auckland I just had time for some harbour photos, not unfortunately of the monster of a private yacht, that was moored on the other side of the cruise terminal to us, it carried a fifty foot yacht, a motorised gin palace of equal size, plus a helicopter and other toys, All the property of one man the Russian owner of Chelsea Football Cub. Whose name I can’t remember or spell

So that was my New Zealand, Beautiful, wild and different in many ways, not least in the fact that it has, I am told, three of its principle public offices filled by women, Prime minister, Governor General, and one other, I know not what.

I left, pleased I had come and hopeful off returning for a longer look.

Yes I did go past the Hobbit village and oak tree, it is here if you wish to come and see it. A whole little village is growing into a town on the back of it. Again, good employment for country people who need it.

So coming up for me, a string of Polynesian islands, for Anne some more sunny days on the deck, will tell you all about later.

Once again thank you for your emails, it is nice to know, we are not forgotten, if any of you don’t want to receive this stuff, let me know that too.

Regards Anne and Cliff."

Amser Cymraeg - 2006

Can you believe it.... at 01:45am the fireworks started!!!

I love it... this is so laid back it's being further than horizontal.. it's like they don't have watches here?

Happy New Year!!!... Only in Wales? or do you know better?

Hugs to all
xx